What comes to mind when you think of easy ways to train your dog? Of course you can use markers and clicker train your dog – no doubt about that. But what else?

I know. I know. The title gave it away… but let me explain.

It’s really easy for us humans to get carried away with verbal communication during training. If you want to train your own dog you have to learn to manage your verbal cues. One of the biggest mistakes I see with new trainers is the use of vocal commands or repeating stuff way too much, oftentimes with good intentions but bad results.

First – your dog doesn’t understand the meaning of a cue (command or primary stimulus) until he’s learned the desired behavior. Also, once you do introduce a cue – you shouldn’t have to repeat it time and again. If your dog doesn’t respond to your cue, you don’t have stimulus control.

This means drop the cue and go back a few steps.

Humans are fascinated with verbal cues and words. We love the idea of speaking to our dogs. Our obsession with words is why we use verbal cues too early and too frequently. The verbal cue is one of the last building blocks of any trained response.

Training sessions are fun and exciting. They’re also filled with still moments. You’ll often find yourself standing in front of a confused pup or (in many cases) a thinking pup. Thinking is GOOD! There’s no need for you to fill the void with unnecessary jabber.

It’s hard sometimes not to speak or repeat yourself in hopes to incite your dog to take some form of action.

I repeat. A thinking dog is a marvelous thing. So is a confused dog.

Silence and patience during training will allow your pup to take center stage and do what you wish for him to do – learn something new.

I always look confused – even when I know what I’m doing. – Halle

Unfortunately, it’s often our own impatience or unease with what’s occurring during the teaching sessions that compels us to speak. If you want to train your dog quickly – there’s no need for you to provide more information than your pup needs.

Makes sense, right?

When you’re fully engaged in a dog training session, every word that comes out of your mouth has some form of intention or meaning to your dog. Even when you don’t think it does.

Looking for Easy Ways to Train Your Dog?

Stop delivering vocal instructions and repeating commands your dog can’t understand. You can use your voice (preferably a clicker) to mark a behavior or even offer praise but anything else when teaching something new is completely unnecessary.

I would even say you shouldn’t use your voice at all if you can help it.

Nice quiet training with hand gestures, crisp clicker clicks and super tasty rewards is the ideal way to train your dog new stuff or tighten up different behaviors.

Keeping verbal cues to yourself during the initial stages of training will accelerate the learning process ten fold.

Using a conditioned marker (specifically a clicker) is definitely one of the easiest ways to train your dog. When it is time to introduce an actual cue – going with visual/physical ones instead of verbal ones, at first, will make things a lot easier.

Remember the following:

Nose First – Kinda Obvious!
Eyes Second – Always Observing and Processing.
Ears Third – Good luck trying to make a point by yelling.

Humans love to speak. We spend most of our time communicating with our voices. Dogs are different when it comes to receiving and processing information.

Plan of action when you train your dog:

1. Mark the right behavior. This can be a behavior that is completely voluntary or solicited through some form of friendly luring or crafty hinting. Either way – achieve the desired behavior and mark it using a clicker or with a simple vocal YES. Nothing wrong with a quick and crisp verbal marker, though I would recommend using a clicker if you’re starting out. Follow up with a tasty reward.

2. Once you have the desired response on repetition you must fade away any lures and transition the behavior to respond to a cue. Ideally this is when you introduce a hand gesture intended to be a cue for the behavior. You only introduce a cue once you have the right behavior. The cue doesn’t mean anything yet. Your job is to deliver the cue as the behavior is occurring to help your dog connect the cue with the behavior. You CAN begin using a vocal cue if you like but there’s no reason to jump the gun here.

3. Roll Back the Cue. Once the dots are connected, you should move the cue from “as-the-behavior-is-occurring” to just slightly before – so that you deliver the cue or command a split-second before your dog actually does the behavior. Yummy rewards are always in play.

4. Your dog is now essentially responding to the cue. Keep practicing. If you push forward too quickly, your dog will become unresponsive out of confusion. If you push too slowly, your dog will become unresponsive out of boredom. It’s about keeping a balance and knowing when to cut the training short and picking it back up for the next session. Read our series on clicker training for dogs to learn more about the process and timeline.

5. Verbal Cues. You can now introduce the vocal cue simultaneously as you deliver the non-vocal signal to let your dog know that they mean the same thing. As I mentioned in step 2 – you can wait to do this because the more information, the slower the learning. Don’t forget to treat for successful reps.

Aside from the vocal cue (when it’s time and used once for each rep), marker (if you don’t use a clicker) and praise (if you can’t help it or feel a treat just isn’t enough), there shouldn’t be any additional talking.

Take it back to when you were in elementary school. Imagine your teacher asking you to write down the solution to a problem for which you might have the answer. You need a minute or two to figure it out. Now imagine your teacher or even fellow students talking, pestering or shouting while you’re trying to THINK because they assume you have don’t have the answer.

You might or might not have realized it but you still needed a little time to formulate your answer.

Your dog needs processing time too. He might get it right or he might get it wrong. Be patient, reasonable and wait for the outcome before you offer additional input. Acting too soon is counter-productive.

The more your dog learns on his own, the better. Don’t be the nagging parent that throws a wrench into the natural development process.

Don’t forget that your dog learns quicker with his eyes than he does with his ears. Being aware of this very powerful piece of information is critical if you’re looking for easy ways to train your dog.

The more you understand and connect with your dog, the better you’ll become at teaching him awesome stuff. If you’re looking for easy ways to train your dog, start by being the best teacher you can be…

Be confident, Be Patient and Be Quiet! Haha!

What do you think?

I know it’s hard jugglin’ the different components of dog training. Managing your verbal cues is one more step, along with timely reward and marker delivery amongst other things.

Leave your comment below. Share your thoughts. Thanks for reading.

Even if you’re the most positive person in the world – dog potty training can be REALLY exasperating!

Whether you’re dealing with a puppy with no previous potty experience (always the easiest to train with sound methods) or a Pween (pup tween) or even an older dog with serious potty backlog, you’re going to run into all kinds of stuff that will have you questioning your very being!

Ok it might not be all that bad – scratch that – it’s BAD in all sorts of ways! Especially if you’re not equipped with the right information to be the head human in charge of the puppy potty training experience.

Successful dog potty training depends on a lot more than just positivity.

Good-bye Idealist! Hello Patient Teacher!

You’re the boss. And I don’t mean that in a bossy-boss kind of way. Your dog needs you to teach him where and when it’s appropriate to let loose. No matter how you look at the situation, you’re in charge. Your four-legged companion does not know any better. Even if your dog looks like he’s got it all figured out – he doesn’t. If he’s peeing and pooping where he shouldn’t on a regular basis, he hasn’t figured it out.

Accidents can and will happen even with trained dogs or pups in potty training transition but I’ll get to that later.

I just want to make it really clear that you, as the human parent, have all the tools necessary to shape, teach, guide and communicate with your dog.

I’ve written a lot about this topic and the most common feedback I get is how quickly one can start doubting oneself or the potty system we teach. It’s normal. Yes it can be difficult. Just hold off on the doubt and remember that no matter what happens – you’re in charge! Your dog potty training success relies heavily on your ability to be persistent, patient and on point at all times.

Reading Material

I’ve written quite a few posts on this topic and I’m going to keep writing about it. I’ve even written an entire step-by-stop guide with answers to the most common questions and solutions to potty problems. You must read the material. We only teach positive dog potty training tips and techniques. This material is pure gold when it comes to this stuff. Here are the links:

- Crate Training Puppies Walkthrough

- How to Train a Puppy without the BS!

- Potty Lessons with Puppy Training Pads

and of course the Free eBook…

- Supreme Strategies for Positive Puppy Potty & Crate Training!

If you do one thing and one thing only – get our free ebook. Sure I want you to subscribe to HBD and would love to have you follow our blog. What I want even more is for you to have all the information at your fingertips in one easy-to-follow instruction guide so you don’t have to keep Googling for dog potty training help!

Da Potty Code!

The CODE is everything in lay terms. Pick up the reading material I mentioned above to understand how and why your dog does what he does when it comes to potty. Learn the different techniques available to you. Whatever you do – remember the following CODE because it’s everything you need.

Dog potty training simplified in its most rudimentary form:

- Manage the Environment. Use a friendly dog crate, leash, specific room in your home and a puppy safe space to keep your dog localized during potty training.

- Limit free roaming and playtime to when you’ve achieved successful potty in the appropriate place. An empty bladder means all-access play for a determined period of time.

- Constant Supervision. When it’s time take your dog to the right place, look for signs. Use a friendly crate to let the bladder fill up so you can predict potty time. Then shape a schedule that works for all parties.

- Punishment: No hitting, yelling, screaming or scaring your dog. This will potentially make your dog not want to do business around you. He will look for hidden spots or wait until you’re not around (which should not happen if you follow the previous step) to make ninja potty.

- Mistake Management. Interrupt mistakes as they occur by directing your dog to the right location. Clean up the mistake using a cleaner that ensures no odor trace is left behind.

- Positive Reinforcement. Praise and Reward. Let your dog clearly know when he’s done the right thing. High value rewards, lots of praise and love. GOOD DOG!!!

- It’s Not Personal! Don’t take anything personally and own up to mistakes just as much as you do for progress and success.

- Rinse and Repeat… Patience, persistence and focus are everything. All it takes is a few weeks of the regimen to see real results and oftentimes, solve the problem completely.

Dog Potty Training Warning!

Once you get the CODE – it’s easy. As I’ve always said – your dog will have you question the fabric of your being. Your puppy will have you doubt the entire process and system. Don’t fall for it!

The CODE works. Believe in it and do NOT deviate. The main reason why you might NOT succeed is because of a lack of confidence or focus when it comes to the really easy stuff. It’s not your fault.

As I’ve already mentioned – accidents can and will happen when potty training your dog. Accidents don’t mean things aren’t working. No living creature is perfect and a dog with past experiences needs time to adjust. It’s perfectly fine – just follow protocol and realign your efforts. Everything will fall into place. Just be extra careful to clean up all trace of accidents to prevent recurrences.

Any healthy and happy dog can be trained to do business in the right place. Any healthy and happy dog can follow a potty schedule with practice. Whenever something goes wrong or a mistake occurs, use the right course of action (see complete guide and walkthrough) and everything will be fine.

Potty training a dog can be difficult but, if you keep everything I mentioned above in mind, it doesn’t have to be.

All I can say if that things will be a LOT easier if you trust in positive methods using the HBD system. Follow Da Potty CODE and you’ll do just fine!

If you do one thing before you leave this page – make sure you grab your free copy of the ultra comprehensive HBD potty manual. It’s got housebreaking covered from A-Z and doesn’t cost a single penny.

Share your potty stories!!! Good and bad – we want to hear them – sound off in the comment section below!

If you’ve read or started reading my comprehensive clicker training for dogs series then you’re already aware of this powerful way of training your dog to tap into his unlimited potential.

We’re asked all the time: “How is clicker training different from marker training?”

I’m glad you asked…

I wanted to write this post to explain the two in simple terms so that if you DO come across materials related to training dogs with markers, you know exactly how everything comes together.

Clicker Training is often Referred to as Marker Training

Marker training (like Clicker training) is a reward based system centered around positive reinforcement. You mark the event or behavior with a conditioned reinforcer (example clicker) that communicates to your four-legged student that they’ve won a reward. Repeated reinforced occurrences of a desired behavior will strengthen that behavior.

For the fact lovers out there! I learned through super expert Karen Pryor that the term “event marker” was first coined by the late Ogden Lindsley, who was actually B.F. Skinner’s protégé. He established the phrase when he used a sound to train his pet donkey – yes a Donkey! You can read more about B.F. Skinner and Operant Conditioning in my Positive Reinforcement post. The term “clicker training” was coined much later when modern trainers started using the noise-making little box we call a clicker.

Once you read through the complete HBD series on clicker training (which is still in progress), you’ll notice future training articles often referring simply to MARKING the behavior instead of referring to actually CLICKING the behavior. They are both one in the same. The reason why I will be referring simply to “marking” is because as you get familiar with clicker training your dog, you’ll also learn to establish a vocal marker as a conditioned reinforcer. Furthermore, as you understand the fundamentals and clock enough successful dog training hours, you’ll learn even more intricate ways to mark behaviors so as to keep things interesting and versatile when training your pup.

For now stick to marker training with your clicker! It’s been established through research that dogs learn much quicker with a clicker than with a verbal marker. Reason being that the clicker has no emotion and doesn’t fluctuate like your voice. Nobody can argue that a clicker is very precise, thus very effective when training. All we have to worry about when clicker training, is timing and keeping the training session engaging and on point. The clicker hands the rest!

Unless I’m stuck without a clicker, I always use one to start teaching new behaviors – even with our smarty pants Halle. As the dog starts to learn and understand the gist of marker training, I’ll introduce a vocal marker in sync with each click to start conditioning the pup to clearly understand both. Then I’ll switch it up. Sometimes I go strictly vocal as we progress in training. Learning to use your voice to train might sound easy but it takes practice, especially amidst everything that encompasses training. Plus whipping out something tangible, like a clicker, is a great predictor that the training game is about to begin. Dogs love this!

“I go bonkers when I see the clicker! I usually can’t control myself so I keep offering Tazmanian Spins until we officially start the session!” – Charlie

Anyone Got a Clicker?

Besides, you can’t possibly carry a clicker around with you everywhere you go, can you? Well, you sort of can thanks to technology – someone developed a free dog clicker app – might not be the amazing but ‘bout time I say! Then there’s also the clever Clicker Leash But chances are you won’t have a clicker, digital or real, in your reach at all times. This is when other conditioned event markers will come in.

Alrighty Then… Marker Training Roundup!

Clicker equals marker. If you’re training with a clicker then you’re training with a marker. Using a clicker isn’t your only form of marking behavior. You can also use voice markers like “Yes!” or by making a “Clicking Sound!” with your mouth. You can even use other noise makers like a whistle! Whether you start to train using verbal markers is entirely up to you – hey you might even be a natural when it comes to this stuff! For the most part, training for dogs should start with a clicker because there’s no event marker as reliable – this has been proven. Facilitating your job as well as expectations for your pup can only yield better training sessions and quicker learning. A clicker with help you do that.

If you’re training your dog with a clicker good for you!!! Traditional compulsion dog training is widespread and CAN be very effective but at the cost of hurting the relationship and bond you have with your dog. Not to mention, some dogs just don’t respond to punishment-based training. Sometimes they even become more aggressive and unresponsive. Often times, an experienced eye can usually pick out a compulsion trained dog from the crowd. These dogs can be very obedient but not always the most boisterous or full of joy, especially around their trainer or dog owner. Marker training with rewards works with all dogs and is especially effective with aggressive dogs or rescues that come with baggage and need to learn wonderful things to cultivate their self esteem.

Do every dog a favor and encourage marker training for dogs with rewards and without unnecessary punishment, every chance you get! Please take a minute out of your day to leave a comment or share anything that’s on your mind below.

I’ve gathered some of my most fave dog walking tips that will get you and your pup out enjoying and exploring your neighborhood. Forget about your traditional around the block potty breaks, it’s time to crank up your dog walking stylo!

1. Always Bring Delicious Treats!

One of the best dog walking tips is “absolutely don’t leave your house without your treat bag.” Sporting a dog treat bag is my all time fave recommendation to dog owners because you never know what kind of circumstances you might encounter while you’re dog walking. You might run into a Barking Buffoon dog, perhaps a large scary snow plow, a playground with noisy kids, even an unusually large garbage bag rattling and crackling in the wind or an enticing, irresistible fluffy rabbit or squirrel.

For some dogs those obstacles present no problems. It’s a “yup, seen it, been there, done that, boring” kinda thing. But for others (especially a new puppy) any one of those can seem terribly life threatening.

Every situation you encounter outside when you’re dog walking is a golden opportunity to either reinforce or teach your dog a preferable behavior with Positive Reinforcement. Tricky situations require steadfast action to keep your dog interested and engaged with you. That’s where having your treat bag filled with your dog’s fave yummies is one of your most clever and an excellent dog training tools.

2. I Don’t Recommend Flip Flops!

Getting ready to go dog walking now? Make sure you’ve got your dog walking fashion gear on and flip flops are a HUGE no no! I learned that the hard way when Halle was about 9 months, full of strength, bounciness and a gigantic prey drive.

One day we were out and about and while I wasn’t totally paying attention, she spotted a squirrel and decided that nothing was going to stop her from chasing that newfound furry toy across the neighbor’s yard. Not some bushes or spring flowers or even Mom’s casual flips. Needless to say, that our curious monkey dragged me barefoot for quite some time until I was able to get her focus back with some simple fun attention grabbing cues and TREATS.

“The secret to my exceptionally well built and sexy sculpted body is very simple; walking daily with Mom & Dad!” – Halle

A good pair of running shoes is an excellent investment. I always dress to impress and come prepared with my runners in case I need to switch gears and go “all-terrain” or do a few sprints when the occasion occurs.

3. Bring a Toy!

If your dog has a higher drive for toys instead of treats, include a favorite toy when you go out for a walk. Smart pet dog toys like tugs work the same way as a treat. The same positive dog training rules apply. If your dog does something good, mark and happily offer a quick toy play session. It’s also great for distractions especially if you have a Kong Wubba dog toy with you. The great thing about the Wubba is that it has a super useful squeaker for those times where you want to get your dog’s immediate attention.

When we take Halle along the lake shore we often see this really happy other dog walking with his head high with a happy tail all “proudy” gripping a Chuckit Ball in his mouth. The dog owner with the Chuckit launcher in hand. They know that any minute their owner will say those magic words “Wanna play fetch?” to reward good walking habits.

Unlike regular tennis balls that damage your dog’s tooth enamel, the Chuckit Balls are super safe, super bouncy and super fun!

Good dog walking tips: if you want to bring a toy along for your adventure make sure you take a toy most appropriate for your walk. I don’t recommend a bouncy ball when dog walking on bustling streets. The last thing you want is to have your dog running into the busy street chasing her ball.

An enjoyable tug toy might be best for city walking!
You should definitely read the article Vish wrote on dog tug of war.

Watch the look on your dog’s face when you pull out one of her fave toys the next time you hit the pavement with your pup!

4. Follow the Weather…

The last thing you want to be doing is running for shelter from sudden heavy rain fall with a totally depressed looking dog (Halle hates the rain) trailing behind you. If it’s pouring outside and we happen to get caught while out walking Halle, we must continue walking and never come to a dead stop because Halle will immediately let us know how she feels about the situation. It’s the funniest thing, our girl instantly transforms into a dark ‘n wet silver statue, with that dreadful look on her face thinking “wait t’ill we get home Mom & dad. I’m gonna go on the carpet and shake it like a salt shaker!” followed by an evil grin.

If you want my best dog walking tips, then follow your local forecaster and make sure you get all weatherized before heading out for your dog walk. Bring an umbrella, wear something light, double up on your sweater or some good warm gloves if you have to.

Do whatever makes you feel happy and gets you in and out with ease. Walking your dog should be a relaxing and bonding experience. Wearing your Friday night outfit might not be a wise fashion choice.

Go with the flow, you’re going to make your dog walking adventure much more enjoyable and comfortable.

5. Explore New Frontiers.

This one is often overlooked and quite important in the grand scheme of things…

Nothing puts more of a smile on my face than seeing Halle go absolutely bonkers wild when we stop in a completely new town or park while on a road trip. Her stumpy little tail goes miles an hour and our silly girl just zig-zags onto new scents filtering all the new smells – so heartwarming!

Don’t limit your dog to the same ol’ walking routes, explore your neighborhood, new local parks and trails. Try these great dog walking tips and see how ultra happy your pup will be. Who knows, your dog might even meet a new friend.

Because dogs absorb the world through their noses first, walking your dog in a totally unfamiliar setting builds confidence and sense of the world around them. Every new and different situation is a learning experience. The next time you’re going on a quick errand, hop your dog in for the ride and stop half way for a quick potty break and keep an eye out for that rapid tail waggin’. It’s a simple as that!

Here’s a quick recap:

- Always bring Yummy Treats!
- Be Wise with your Dog Walking Fashion.
- Keep an Eye Out for the Weather.
- Take a Fun Toy along for the Walk.
- Be Adventurous!

Don’t simply think of the dog walk as a dreaded duty but as a great opportunity to bond with your furry friend. You’ll discover many new things about your dog when she’s instinctually doing what she loves most – being a dog!

Remember to keep things Fun and Engaging! Do you have any great dog walking tips that you’d like to share? I always love to hear from our friends – please leave your thoughts below.

One of the most popular questions we get from readers and dog owners in our everyday encounters is –

How early can I start clicker training my Puppy?

Simple answer is –

Right of Way!

As soon as your puppy enters your home, you should make sure you’re armed with a strong understanding of how clicker training for dogs works as well as key dog training tools so that you start off on the right foot.

It’s amazing how many new dog owners forget to include basic puppy clicker training goodies into the “home integration” checklist when adopting a new pup! Leash, collar, dog bowl and toys always make the list. They’re all very important but so is a quality crate for puppy potty training and a clicker with treats for teaching just about everything else.

Yeah your puppy is young but he’s very eager to learn. In fact, everything is new to him, so there’s no better time to teach than immediately! If you’re working with a nano-pup or an eight-weeker, don’t expect miracles. But you can definitely condition the clicker and start teaching basic cues like “sit” and “down” which will be the basis for core dog obedience as your puppy grows. Even if you don’t teach any commands, you can utilize the clicker to introduce your puppy to clicker training in order to get him warmed up to his crate or to teach him to settle when you need some down time or to greet visitors in a calm manner.

The power of positive reinforcement is at the core of clicker puppy training and will provide a strong foundation for house rules and everyday learning.

So if you’ve got a new puppy – you can BEGIN clicker training.

Can’t I just train with my VOICE?

Of course you can, but we don’t recommend it. Especially if you’re new to positive dog training or have never had to raise a puppy before. Heck, even experienced trainers resort to using the clicker when it’s time to re-condition certain cues or teach complicated new behaviors. I personally use verbal cues to mark and teach puppies often but still resort to a clicker just as much, if not more.

Yes, puppy clicker training is essentially marker training but there’s nothing as precise as a clicker. It carries no emotion and never waivers which makes for very clear communication with your pup. With time, just holding the clicker in hand will have your puppy in a frenzy over all the possibilities in any given training session. As you gain experience, you can couple the clicker with your voice markers and then go vocal solo later but in the beginning – we always recommend a clicker – no exceptions!

Three Major Clicker Training Puppy DON’TS!

1. DON’T just whip out a clicker and expect your puppy to respond with miracle moves. You must take the time to condition the clicker and teach your puppy what this amazing device means in the grand scheme of things.

2. DON’T abuse the use of the clicker or dilute its meaning if you don’t know how to use one. Take the time to read how clicker training works and understand the powerful meaning behind a conditioned reinforcer, which is the clicker. Losing clicker value will only slow you down and possibly have you scrambling. If you’re nervous about this, consult with a positive trainer or practice in front of a mirror until you feel ready to go live!

3. DON’T mix up positive reinforcement training with correction or punishment-based training. If you’re taking the time to build trust and open a strong communication line with your clicker training puppy, stick with it. There will be times when teaching your puppy will prove to be challenging, but probability, consistency and increasingly strong reinforcers will always win in the long term.

Clicker Training Puppy Benefits

Here’s what you and your little one have to gain from clicker training. I’m going to keep this part short but make no mistake about it – everything I’m about to mention goes infinitely beyond some simple words on a page. The value of the following benefits are extremely profound if you just take a few moments to really think about them.

If you start your puppy off really young, you can expect a much stronger bond and ability to communicate with your dog throughout his entire life. In most cases, in ways you’ve probably never imagined.

Conditioning your puppy to clicker training will ultimately set the tone for all your dog training adventures. Markers and Rewards for life!

Here’s one of my personal favorite benefits:

A puppy that learns about cause and effect when it comes to his behavior is more likely to be engaged and better equipped for all situations in life. Clicker puppy training puts your “mini monster” in control, allowing him to get creative and explore outcomes of different behaviors in all areas of his life.

There’s really isn’t a price you can put on all the above. Especially when it comes down to only few hours of reading/learning/prepping from the dog owner’s part and a few dollars for some basic dog training tools.

What are YOU Waiting For?

Start by reading HBD articles on clicker dog training and get hooked up with the proper supplies, most importantly a Clicker! Starting off is pretty simple and can be learned relatively quickly but I will stress that you should take your time and learn the nuts and bolts of clicker training so you stay on course as you progress with your puppy.

I hope you’ll commit to using amazing puppy clicker training to educate your four-legged companion about all the finer things in life! Walking nicely, behaving, playing fun games with boundaries and pulling off the coolest tricks for the ultimate rewards!

Don’t be shy – please leave a comment in the section below. You know I love hearing from you… even if it’s just to say hello or to introduce your puppy to HBD!!!

Playing dog tug of war with your pup is an incredibly effective way for your dog to tap into his natural predatory behavior and burn energy through solid mental and physical stimulation. It also helps you to bond with your dog on a very deep level and communicate with your companion during a heightened state of play, which can serve you throughout your dog’s entire life. Playing tug with your dog is powerful stuff! In this article, I’m going to teach you how to safely incorporate tug of war into his regular training, play and exercise routine.

I’m assuming you’ve read my “Fear of Dog Aggression is NO Reason to avoid Playing Tug” article. If you haven’t already, I strongly urge you to do it immediately so you have a full understanding of how influential and amazing playing dog tug of war can be for your four-legged friend. It also clearly explains why you must put your worries about dominance and aggression aside and learn to tap into a potent training and exercise tool that your dog will love in every way.

“Did you have to use a pic of my colorful jolly tug instead of a bad-ass tug? What about my rep?” } Halle

In my first article, I mention that playing tug-of-war CAN get rough and does require very strict boundaries and rules to keep the sessions fun and safe. I also outline the critical rules for safe play which are:

1. Dog Lets Go on cue every time, NO Exception.
2. Dog doesn’t Touch or Take without your Permission.
3. No Teeth Contact on anything other than Tug Toy.

Before we cover how to actually teach your dog to become a responsible and happy tugger, I want to outline the different pieces to the puzzle. I’ve been planning this post for some time and feel that covering the different components individually will help tremendously when it comes to actually training your dog to tug in a safe and responsible manner.

The end goal is to help you pick up some tug toys and begin teaching your dog this wonderful game, which will do wonders for all parties involved. Let’s get right to it!

“I love to Play Tug – What a RUSH!” } Halle

Tag-Team Sport!

Let’s take dominance and pack structure and throw it out the window on this one. While we’re at it, let’s also take the concept of winning and losing and leave it on the sidelines as well. Good smart responsible tugging isn’t about any of that. Don’t get caught up in all the misinformation out there regarding the topic of ‘losing your boss status’ when your dog ‘wins’ or (on the flipside) grooming an aggressive dog when you ‘lose’.

So-called control or aggression issues usually stem from other affairs like object guarding dilemmas or the failure to institute a strong release command.

I want you to think of playing tug of war with your dog as a tag-team sport. One of the best tag-team sports you can play just about anywhere. Like in any sport, there has to be officiating rules. Your dog’s sole purpose is to focus on playing the game, which makes YOU in charge of the rules.

Here’s how we at HBD like to explain dog tug of war:

The dual role can be tricky and will take some time to master but no worries, this step-by-step article has you covered. If you follow the information in this article (and remain responsible and committed to the process of teaching your dog) then you will train a joyful power-tugger in no time.

You and your dog will benefit tremendously from the rigorous physical exercise and mental stimulation. You’ll also be quite surprised how many calories you’ll personally burn in the process.

Caution!

I’ll be mentioning some important caution tips throughout but keep in mind that the goal is for the game to be safe at all times. You have to ease your dog into this and remain mindful of everything I’m going to outline on this page. You don’t want to progress to full-on tugging if your dog has aggression issues, does not release objects during the initial phases or engages tugging in a manner that feels dangerous.

Remember – Extreme Fun and Safety at all costs! Things can get out of control really quick if you’re not alert.

Use your awareness and be honest during every stage of teaching this amazing game. If you’re not sure about something or seem to be having problems, we strongly urge you to consult with a positive dog trainer in your local area. We also always welcome your questions in the comments section below.

Designated Tug Toys

The golden rule is to use a special toy designated only for tugging. We personally like to assign up to two toys for tugging. This ensures the dog has a backup tug that he’s familiar with when one is due for retirement. Sometimes introducing a new toy cold turkey (when your dog has been conditioned for one) might require a little extra integration. Alternating between two is also helpful when you have different tug shape requirements, whether you’re just playing or using a specific tug for training rewards. You can of course, go with only one toy. But getting your dog accustomed to two, and NO more, is ideal.

I’m planning a post with some of our favorite tug recommendations in the coming weeks. Join our Free Dog Newsletter to stay on top of upcoming posts! In the meantime, make sure the toy you buy is durable and suitable for the size of your dog. If your dog is a super power tugger then be prepared to invest in new tugs as needed.

There’s another important rule that many dog owners, even owners that play tug with their dogs on a regular basis, sometimes overlook:

Only bring out the designated tug toy when it’s time to play the game.

Otherwise, keep the toy stored out of sight. This way your dog learns to understand that he only plays tug when the referee says so. Hiding the tug toy also allows for the dog to kick into an excited driven state whenever it’s presented, which facilitates the whole game.

You don’t want your dog trying to initiate the game at will or anytime you approach his tug toy - or any other toy for that matter. Also, the value of the tug toy coming out of a magic hidden place is more exciting than a tug that’s always in sight.

The Release Cue

The release cue counts for one one-third of the critical rules of engagement we’ll be discussing in just a bit. Your dog should be conditioned to release objects on command before you can actually play dog tug of war.

You might have to set aside a few quick training sessions across a few days in order to establish this very important cue.

Figure out what cue word you want to use. You can go with “give” “drop” “let” or whatever else you like.

Then get some really tasty mini treats ready and begin.

The 5 Step Process

1. Start by offering your dog the toy. Let him grab it between his teeth. If he resists or doesn’t want it, leave it by his side. You can also try shaking the tug toy a little bit to get your dog excited about it.

2. Show him the treat wait for your dog to release. Once you have full possession, reward with a treat and praise “good dog”. If you leave it by his side, take it back and reward.

3. Then progress to hiding the treat behind your back or keeping it in a treat pouch. Introduce the cue (designated word) and wait for the release. You want your dog to let go on his own will and then reward him with a treat and praise.

4. Once your dog has learned to let go for a hidden treat and responds to your cue, keep practicing. You want to be sure your dog clearly understands the required behavior before proceeding to teaching the actual game.

5. Spread this exercise out into several 5 minutes training sessions throughout the day. Stay consistent and be patient. You can also use a clicker or reward marker the instant your dog releases before rewarding. Read my “Clicker Training for Dogs” series if you want to know more about marking events.

You can practice this with other objects because a good release command is priceless and has many practical life applications. We’ve trained Halle to respond to “Give” and “Drop”. “Give” means she gives it to us at our feet or in our hand. “Drop” means she lets go of whatever’s in her mouth regardless of where she’s standing. With tugging we use “Give” as her release command.

If your dog tends to run away or tries to flee with the object, don’t chase after him. Ignore him and soon enough the toy will come around. You can also make sure you always keep one hand on the toy at all times to avoid this issue during “Release” training. You could also keep the tug toy tethered on a rope or strong cord. As you teach your dog the amazing game of tugging, he’ll quickly learn to stay close, even when you let go, because there’s nothing more exciting than having you tugging with him. Not even a game of boring old single-player chase!

Other Important Cues

You can establish a cue for tipping off that you’re about to play the game – sort of like the tug equivalent of “Want to Go Outside?” However, pulling out the designated tug toy should be more than enough to send your power tugger into a happy frenzy. Having a cue to announce the game isn’t necessary but valuable. We say, “Want to TUG?” You should see those precious Weimaraner eyes light up!

The only other vital cue aside from the very important release cue is the official “Start” cue. This will signal your dog to begin tugging. You can use “GetGet” “Tug”, “Check”, “Take” or whatever else suits you and your best friend as long as it’s exclusive to this game. We say “Take” for when we tell Halle to grab stuff so we chose not to use it for tugging. Come up with a cue that will be mutually exclusive to playing tug with your dog.

Halle’s cue for starting dog tug of war is “Kill It!” We sometimes put on a show for Friends and Family of Halle, performing all kinds of different tricks. Playing some fierce tug is the dangerous (wink wink) part of the show. Using a cue like “Kill It!” always incites reaction from watchers and adds a little oomph to the spectacle! We also decided to go with that specific cue because it’s very distinct sounding and much different than any of the other cues Halle already knows. I still smile at the thought of such a lethal cue used to play tug with our cutesy little Barbarian.

The reason why it’s ideal to opt for a distinct and exclusive cue is to ensure that it’s never accidentally used in a manner that might incite your dog to kick into super tugger mode when there’s no game being played.

We personally prefer not to use any gestures or non-vocal cues like we do for many of the other commands that we teach. When it comes to tugging we keep it strictly vocal, using the “Start” cue along with the visual of the actual tug toy. We want the dog to associate the combination of both as the official whistle that allows the game to begin. In other words - No tugging allowed unless both toy and “Start” cue are clearly presented.

Shy Tuggers

Some dogs won’t be too excited about playing or even grabbing the toy between their teeth. This might be due to confidence issues or due to some kind of prior history. Don’t give up on these shy tuggers.

As I mentioned above, for the release command, start by just leaving the toy by their side and taking it back in exchange for a reward. Try to get your shy tugger excited about every little step. Even if the dog just holds it for a second, praise and treat. You might have to take baby steps to build your dog’s confidence and that’s completely fine.

You could also try different tug toys or tugs with built-in squeakers in order to incite a sturdy or substantial response. Get animated if needed.

If you’ve already begun teaching your dog about other cues or if your dog loves to play ball, set up a small training session or game of ball and seamlessly integrate some steps to begin tugging. See if your dog’s responds better when his drive has already been kicked up a notch.

There are of course some dogs that just won’t play tug at all. No worries, there are plenty of other games you can play. Just don’t give up after one or two tries because many shy tuggers can be converted by changing up the variables and putting in a little extra effort.

Strict Rules of Engagement

It’s time to go over the rules for dog tug of war. None of these should be taken lightly and are all extremely critical for safe play. They are also foundation from which you can clearly teach and train your dog to become a power tugger.

If your dog breaks any of the rules, you will offer a STRIKE. Don’t worry, nothing bad or physically punishing. Strikes are how you, the referee, can enforce the rules. Consider a Strike the same as a Red Flag, I’m going to clearly explain STRIKES and how they work in the next section of this article.

1. Dog lets go on cue every time, NO Exception.

When engaged in tugging, saying the “Release” cue means the dog lets go of tug toy. You want to try this out with some LIGHT tugging at first to see if your dog is focused. As you progress, see if your dog lets go at a heightened state.

In the beginning, allow for 2-3 seconds tops in order to give your dog the opportunity to let go, especially if he’s in a revved up state. During the learning phase, a couple seconds MAX CAN be permitted.

Once you progress to instant release or feel the dog clearly understands what you expect of him then you CANNOT under any circumstance give any leeway. No more than ONE second to release and that’s it. In other words, once you’ve established the cue and your dog has delivered several successful releases, don’t backstep and give your dog time to decide. Stay firm and consistent if you want your dog to remain disciplined with this critical first rule.

If your dog takes too long to let go or won’t let go then your dog gets a STRIKE.

2. Dog doesn’t Touch or Take without your Permission.

Once you pull out the tug toy, your dog should get excited but be very polite and wait for the invitation to play. He shouldn’t be grabbing and lunging at the tug toy before you begin playing. It took a little time for Halle to get over this urge. We now accept a little nose-to-toy contact or happy lick followed by a backward hop (mostly cause she simply can’t help it!) when we present the toy but nothing more or else it’s a STRIKE!

“Hey, I’m a Weim! I have to cheat or take a inch every chance I get!” } Halle

Also, between each tugging period, there should be no attempts at initiating, biting or tugging until the “Start” cue has been presented. Any soft or bold attempts should result in an immediate STRIKE.

If your dog just can’t wait and starts doing crazies or losing his mind, it’s simple – STRIKE! He’ll be quite stunned and amazed at how good of a referee you can be! :)

Don’t get lazy with this important rule because dogs will take an inch and roll with it. Teach your dog that being polite and patiently waiting for the “Start” cue is the only way to play, no exceptions.

3. No Teeth Contact on anything other than Tug Toy.

There’s no leniency on this one. If you feel your dog’s teeth on your skin or clothes at any moment – scream “ouch” and give your dog a STRIKE.

You should say “ouch” or “eeek – that’s not nice” even if it doesn’t hurt. You have to make it very clear than human skin is extremely sensitive. This will also help your dog learn bite inhibition and jaw control, which is crucial in all areas of life, particularly when playing with other dogs and kids.

A dog’s mouth is like the equivalent of a human hand. Dogs can be very precise in how they use their mouth. They manipulate their mouths in the same manner that we use our hands – performing various actions like picking up stuff.

With some constructive feedback and clear concise information, your dog will learn to avoid touching you with his teeth very quickly.

Also keep in mind that accidents can and do happen. It’s your job to be extra vigilant when tugging and manipulating the tug toy. Keep your eyes focused and be very aware as you play to minimize any potential mistakes.

Please repeat after me – human skin contact is an instant STRIKE!

Strikes Explained!

It’s time I explain this powerful action that you have in your referee arsenal. A STRIKE is basically a time out. The game, regardless of the stage you’re at, abruptly ends whenever a rule is broken.

This means, everything stops! You put the tug toy away or out of reach and ignore your dog for anywhere between 30 seconds and a few minutes depending on how long you feel your dog needs to settle down. You’ll get used to assessing what time frame is adequate once your dog learns the ropes. A pro tugger might only need a few seconds to be reminded that the rules are still in effect and that there’s no special treatment now that he’s a superstar tugger. Beginner tuggers might need a little more time to connect the dots and realize which mistakes are causing this boring timeout.

We all know how STRIKES work right?
3 STRIKES and you’re out.

In other words, game ends for the day or for a few hours, at the very least. Three STRIKES might seem like a lot but that amount works just fine. Although, if like, stick to just ONE or even TWO. Regardless, make sure you accept no more than 3 STRIKES or you might find yourself messing up the entire training process. Again, use your own discretion. Many times, ending the game for the day will do wonders for getting your dog tuned into how serious you are about the rules. Adjust the number of STRIKES to your tolerance level and dog but max out at three please.

“I hold the world record for the quickest 3 Strikes at Tugging EVER – 2 and half minutes! Wait… that’s not a good thing is it?” } Halle

STRIKES are vital and very important in order to establish some sort of consequence for breaking the rules. Playing tug will become very important to your dog so he’ll quickly learn to show good sportsmanship in order to stay out of the penalty box.

This whole concept is simple yet you might sometimes find it difficult to execute. This difficulty could be for a number of reasons. For example, you’ve been waiting to play tug and you’re just as excited about it as your dog. So when you begin, your dog keeps breaking rules, which leads you to you second-guess on giving STRIKES because you don’t want to end the experience so quickly.

Don’t ever feel bad when your dog looks confused or sad when the game ends. It’s all good. If you’re consistent and clear, it’s all good.

Don’t slack off and you’ll very quickly see progress. Getting lazy or inconsistent will muddle up the entire process. Even star tuggers make mistakes and need a few penalty minutes every now and then.

If you can master your STRIKE frequency, consistency and timing, with practice you’ll be literally blown away by your dog’s tugging skills. Your furry friend will also appreciate your fairness and clear rules which will allow him to focus on becoming a better player.

Training for Dog Tug of War

First the good news! With all the nuts and bolts out of the way and all the bases I’ve covered to this point, the training process will be pretty straightforward.

We’ve already addressed all the principal concerns, critical rules and tug components. In this section, I’m basically going to walk you through the actual dog tugging game so you have a clear picture of how it all comes together.

I would recommend playing at home or in an indoor space at first. You can start by introducing this game outside but it’s not ideal given the possible distractions. The great thing about dog tug of war is that it can be played in a minimal amount of space so take advantage of that, especially in the beginning stages. Also avoid slippery surfaces as they can cause injuries, like a pulled muscle, during intense play.

10 Steps…

1. When you decide it’s time to play. Announce the game (tip-off cue) if you have a special phrase you use or simply pull out the tug toy and watch your dog go nuts.

2. Have your dog sit or wait and get yourself together to begin play.

3. Look at your dog and smile. Say the “Start” cue and allow your dog to begin tugging. Start with light tugging and then ask for “Release”. You can mark and use a treat reward for a successful “Release” if you like but don’t make a habit of it. Eating goodies and tugging don’t mix very well, especially with dogs that get too excited and guzzle down treats without breathing. You can use treats at first but eventually the opportunity to PLAY AGAIN is the reward for letting go. Allowing another chance to tug will become reinforcing enough to omit treats altogether. Treats are good in the beginning but should be phased out relatively quickly.

4. After some good releases you can allow for more rigorous tugging. Dog Growling and making fierce sounds is permitted and perfectly normal. Your dog furiously shaking his head is also fine. No worries. After a minute or so, ask for a “Release”. If there’s a delay or if your dog refuses – STRIKE.

5. As your dog gets better, allow for longer tugging intervals. Try to keep eye contact with your dog when possible or when he’s looking at you with the tug toy in his mouth. Exude positive energy and praise him for good behavior and smart tugging. You can also eventually add in a little bit of touching or petting as he’s tugging to get him used to contact. Always be mindful and use baby steps to build and mold the tugging experience into something very special.

6. Next, you should mix in some fun obedience training and other cues like “Sit”, “Down”, “Paw”, “Turn” or whatever else your dog already knows between each “Release” and “Start” cue in order to mix it up and keep your dog focused. Alternating with some mental exercises will provide a double whammy of benefits. Sometimes, we mix in all sorts of different games and training between tugging sessions to make the entire routine extra fun and unpredictable.

7. If your dog bites you or you feel his teeth, remember to go “OUCH” and pause with a STRIKE even if it doesn’t hurt. No exceptions and zero tolerance for this infraction.

8. Though it’s all right to have your dog stand on hind legs for quick bursts when tugging or even getting lifted off the ground, we prefer to keep the tug low to avoid any unnecessary pressure on the hips and joints. We do allow some jumping up but nothing too excessive. Our ‘natural’ veterinarian initially recommended reducing jumping and the like during play, and we definitely agree. Just be mindful. You also want to avoid forcing any quick and awkward neck turns or twists. Roll with your dog and feel your dog’s movements.

9. If you come to 3 STRIKES, or less depending on your allowed threshold, stop the game completely and resume on another day. Or you can try waiting until the session has been (for lack of a better term) forgotten.

10. Mix things up, pull sometimes and at other times, allow your dog to do the pulling and yanking. Like I mentioned in the very beginning of this article, don’t worry about winning and losing. Tag-team sport all the way! For the most part you should have possession of the toy after each release. Every now and then, you can say “Take” or whatever other cues you might use to give your dog the toy for a few supervised minutes. The dog will love having a burst of alone time with the toy. Kindly ask for a “Release” or “Drop” and take it back to restart tugging. You can also tug and always keep possession of the toy. No worries. Your dog will love playing the game for what is it. It’s not a win or lose scenario when the game has been established to be played a specific way.

That pretty much sums it up! By now you have virtually all the information you need to get your dog playing tug like a champ! :)

Once your dog gets better with the game, it’s time to take the show on the road. You can introduce the tug game outdoors, at the park or wherever you like.

Infinity and Beyond!

If you’ve been reading our other dog training articles and HBD posts then you know that there are always variables and conditions to every rule. Nothing is ever definite when it comes to working with animals.

Don’t be shy to ask for help if needed and never push or over-exert your dog or take any chances if you feel the game is becoming too rough or unsafe. Always play it smart and be responsible.

Also, all behavior is prone to fluctuation so you must be committed to practicing and playing dog tug of war on a regular basis in order to make it second nature for your canine friend.

The training and learning never stops!

With time, you’ll be able to integrate tugging into your training sessions making it a powerful reward alongside treats and praise. Tugging can be a very strong training power-up.

Tugging also sets the stage for teaching consequence and effect at a very high level of play, which makes concise communication the cornerstone of your training sessions. Your dog will respond very quickly once he understands this black-and-white concept.

I really hope you find this article useful and I count on you taking everything I mentioned seriously. This post turned out to be much longer than expected but it’s been worth it and I’ve really enjoyed writing it. Please share with friends and other dog owners that might find it useful. Thanks for reading!

Last but not least, please do me a favor a leave a comment below. I want to hear anything and everything you might have to say about your dog tug of war experiences. Post your questions and share your stories!

The dog walk is not a complicated activity. You walk and the dog ultimately follows. But for some it can be a dreadful experience. This is my second article that focuses on the important subject of dog walking. Please make sure you read my first article titled “The Uncontrollables Walk the Dog & Save Yourself” as we look at the not so pleasant dog walking companions. You know them, the barkers, jumpers and the lovable pullers of course.

I know that walking the dog sometimes ends up at the very bottom of your priority list and it seems there’s always a reason not to walk the dog:

- There are those days when you’re tired and you just don’t want to move, let alone go outside.

- Perhaps you don’t have a good relationship with your dog, in fact you might even dislike him.

- Your TV shows are about to start.

- Today you have absolutely no time for a dog walk because of your never ending busy schedule.

- The dog you’re in charge of walking isn’t even yours!

- You don’t like picking up after your dog takes care of his business, so no walking for you.

- The kids will do it.

- The dog needs a bath.

- It’s raining, it’s windy and you haven’t bought any rain gear.

- You’re lazy.

- The backyard is a good dog walk substitute.

- Maybe you just don’t like walking period.

I have to tell it like it is, whether you like it or not.

If you have a dog, big or small, if you have a lovable furry monkey, then you absolutely must walk him. It’s as simple as that. There are no excuses for not walking your dog. You have to dig deep down inside your heart and gather up some willpower and strength to gear up and take the cutesy for his greatly needed walk. Stop making excuses and just do it. You can’t possibly come up with a new reason everyday to cancel the walk because you’re going to drive yourself and your dog ‘bonkers’.

Stop exonerating yourself from one of your dog’s most crucial activities in his entire life. It’s a waste of time, trust me. I assure you that it’s not as bad as you might think. In fact if you stay open minded and follow some of my super easy tricks, you might actually learn to enjoy it, even if it’s just a little bit.

3 Easy Peasy Dog Walking Tips for the Rationalizing Dog Owners

1. Change your mindset about the famous dog walk. You’ve created a certain negative image and label of the walk and I want you to throw it away. It’s that negative attitude that’s locking the doors and contaminating the very nature of what a dog walk actually represents. One of the most important times that you will share with your dog. A walk represents mutual respect and trust between the dog and his owner. You don’t want to miss out on all that. I promise that walking your dog will greatly strengthen the wonderful bond you have with your canine companion. From now on I want you to associate happy thoughts to the walk. Put a huge smile on your face and kindly invite your dog for a wonderful walk. Go on out and enjoy these special times with your buddy.

2. You come in, dog goes out. The moment you enter your house, grab the lead and your anxious dog and hit the pavement. Don’t think twice and ruin the great flow at the front door. A quick dog walk around the block for 10 even 20 minutes is all it takes to get started. It’s an excellent opportunity because you’re already kitted. Use that energy and go for it.

3. Combine quick errands with your dog walk. If you’re running out the dog for some quick errands grab the dog with you. Why not, you’re going out for a bit anyways. Take the dog with you while you check your mail, pick up your toddler at daycare or even drop something off at a neighbor’s house. It can all be done with your pup by your side.

Don’t tarnish the great dog walk with unnecessary excuses because you’re preventing your dog from truly enjoying his life. Please take him out. He needs it, he deserves it, he’s essentially a dog!

Try out some of my tips and let me know how things went on your new dog walk. I want to hear some of your tricks on how you manage your dog walks. What are some of your greatest and not so greatest dog walking experiences?

The bottom line is your dog needs dog walks no matter what. It’s part of his daily essentials and he relies on you, his loving and caring owner, to make sure he’s physically and mentally balanced. Your dog may not have proper walking etiquette or he might be so unpleasant you’ve cut back drastically on taking him outside. Whatever your reasons, these simple dog walking tips will help you and your dog get out the door in no time.

Dog Walking is your Dog’s Fundamental Birthright. He absolutely loves it and needs lots of it every day. Walking or migrating is your dog’s ultimate purpose in life. It’s his way of figuring out how the world around him works. Walking outside strengthens his natural predator instincts and skills. It also keeps his body and mind in top shape. Walking is the #1 activity that allows your dog to do his innate “doggy-things”. He also gets to carry out one of his much-loved activities, maintaining his social network and checking up on “Pee-Mail”. You know, like: “What’s the word on the streets?” “Who’s hanging around with whom?” “Are any of my furry peeps sick?” and “Who’s the new kid in town?” that sort of thing.

“When I go out, I just have to see,
If another dog has been at my tree,
I sniff it up and I sniff it down,
Gotta get a read on the dogs around”
- Author unknown

I promise that when you walk the dog, the experience will be pleasant and stress-free with these quick easy tips. You’ll also recharge your dog’s inner spirit and keep him ultimately happy and fulfilled.

Dog walking everyday will instantly eliminate roughly 80% of common dog behavior problems (such as barking and jumping) with an added bonus of general calm and happiness in your home.

The Uncontrollable Walking Dog

I can’t stress enough the importance of walking your dog. It’s an amazing energy burner for both you and your pet. But I completely understand that it can sometimes be a little tricky and oftentimes, totally embarrassing if your dog doesn’t have proper dog walking manners. The dogs in the following group are not the greatest walking companions:

Barking Buffoons

Barking Buffoons bark at passing cars, noisy kids, people on bikes and large garbage cans. They intimidate shrubs and trees, scary birds, cats and (of course) crying babies, older people and neighborhood dogs. Barking Buffoons might also bark at the wind, leaves, an empty water bottle rolling down the street, a gum wrapper in the way, more unknown dogs, strangers and let’s not forget, big frightening buses and dangerous butterflies.

The list is pretty much endless because each Barking Buffoon has his own bad habits. A good dog walk several times a week will immediately curb your dog’s energy and you’ll progressively notice the disappearance of his incessant bark. I will get to all that in just a bit.

OPP – Obnoxious Persistent Pullers

The Obnoxious Persistent Puller (the OPP) will stop at nothing to get the next step in. This type of dog will not mind you one bit. Even when he’s about to rip the arm off your shoulder, this guy doesn’t seem to care much about anything other than what’s going on in front of him. The pulling is tolerable if your bud is a cute cuddly 15-pounder. But if you’ve got a large Shepherd or a strong German Pointer, it can the OPP can be downright dangerous, especially if you’re a 120-pound female. Unfortunately, dog walking is almost impossible with an OPP.

I personally know a couple of OPPs in our neighborhood and we (rarely) observe them during our walks with Halle. I say rarely because the owners just cannot manage. Imagine that an uncontrollable baby elephant is constantly pulling you around. It’s not so cool. If you’re living with an OPP in need of training, I sympathize with you.

“You down with OPP? Yeah You know me!” } Halle

Bouncing Circus Dogs

Let’s not forget the Bouncing Circus dogs. This group is very light on their feet, ready to entertain at every corner of the street. Don’t bother approaching this dog unless you want a tête-à-tête greeting from a big boy. Again, not very pleasant if the weather is a bit mushy and muddy. You can say bye-bye to that nice clean outfit of yours. Jumping up on people at will is not very polite. I don’t care if your dog is a jumping puppy or a Weim; a dog bouncing up on you is not nice, period.

For the Barking Buffoons, the OPPs and the Bouncing Circus dogs, dog walking is not enjoyable, so their owners just don’t do it or keep walks to a minimal. I don’t blame them. I wouldn’t like it either.

There’s nothing more pleasant and lovely than walking a well-mannered dog. Everybody is happy. The dog gets to migrate and take care of his doggy-business and the owner gets to unwind and enjoy the present moment. It’s a beautiful peaceful thing.

Don’t despair if your dog happens to fall into one of the groups above. I promise you’ll have some super fun dog walks in your near future if you follow some of my simple dog walking tips.

First here are 3 extremely easy tips that will help you and your dog roam the neighborhood with a little more ease and a lot more confidence. Your number one goal here is giving your dog the important intellectual and physical exercise that he so desperately requires. Even when your dog is pulling you down the street, jumping on everyone or barking at everything in sight, your puppy needs his walk – pronto. He needs his exercise because it calms him down. He also needs some good dog training, which will do wonders FOR his overall behavior and wellness.

Once you’ve got your dog walking again, I highly recommend you check out our Dog Training section on HBD and get your pooch started with some clicker dog training. Including some quick training sessions (intellectual stimulation) throughout the week will serve your dog very well.

Three Simple Dog Walking Tips for the Uncontrollables:

1. Keep your focus on the walk. I want you to calmly gear up, clip the lead on your dog and open your door and just walk. Your ultimate goal is to take a 20-minute walk with your little troublemaker (no matter what happens) and come back home. Make it a mission. Ignore all the distractions, people, cars, birds and other pups and just resolutely walk your dog. Make sure he does his potty and then focus on what’s before you and walk. Your dog will try to cause his regular chaos but I want you to completely ignore him and focus on your goal. He will very quickly recognize that he has to keep up with your pace. It will be extra hard at first but your dog needs his walk and you have to do it.

If you’re dealing with an insecure barker or jittery boo, the key is for you to be extra confident. This means shoulders up and proud demeanor. Your dog will feel your energy and will learn to relax with time. Slowly build up the time you spend walking to a good hour or two per day.

2. Low-key dog walks. Another great tip is to walk your dog at certain times of the day when you can limit most if not all the distractions that make him lose his mind. Wake up a few minutes earlier in the morning when the streets are deserted. Or take your pup out later in the evening when all the house lights go out. Take advantage of those great quiet opportunities to enjoy a peaceful walk with your dog.

Also, try alternate locations, where there may be limited distractions, and go for a dog walk. Here are just a few that come to mind: any empty parking lot, an industrial area after hours, most rural areas, secluded waterfronts. As well, large parks may have a few isolated areas that are great and will allow you to get your dog walk in. Take some time to scout your neighborhood for nice quiet spots, even if that means taking some time and driving there. I promise your dog will be forever grateful and you’ll experience greater peace in your house. It’s all worth it.

3. Create simple distractions with treats, games and some quick power training sessions. During your walk, take a few breaks and practice some simple training commands like a series of sits or stays-and-downs then offer your dog his favorite treats. Bust a 30-second game of tug to burn some of your dog’s extra energy. This also works really well to redirect dogs that need a little more confidence or focus.

Remember to concentrate on your ultimate goal, the dog walk. It’s so easy to get distracted. You might notice a puppy on the other side of the street and you might start to panic because you know that at any minute, your dog is going to lose it and make you look like a complete fool. You must move forward and ignore everything around you. Change the side of the street and complete your mission because your buddy needs to get his walk on. Your dog truly depends on you. Don’t deprive him of this great natural pleasure just because he sometimes acts like a monkey.

Like I said earlier, once you’re done with walking your dog add some fun and easy dog training sessions to your week. Watch how quickly your dog will transform from an Uncontrollable to a very well mannered walking companion.

Look out for my second post on dog walking. Next, we’re going to help you build your confidence and willpower so you can hit the pavement with your dog in no time. If you’re having difficulty committing to walking your dog then make sure you check out my next article titled: “Don’t Over Think the Dog Walk, Just Do It”.

I really want to know if you happen to live with one of the Uncontrollables? What makes you cringe and what do you absolutely hate about walking your dog? Do you have any special tips and techniques that help you get that dog walk in? How bad does your dog get if he doesn’t go out for awhile? I definitely want to hear about your dog walking adventures.

If your dog is channeling his inner scavenger every time there’s food laying around a kitchen table or counter then you’ve got a problem on your hands. Dog counter surfing is usually the offspring of being rewarded for engaging in such behavior.

Dogs are insanely curious souls.

If your dog has been rewarded for being a snoop, especially with tasty foods and treats, then he’ll always be on the lookout for more opportunities to win awesome goodies.

If you punish and yell at your dog, then you can expect him to pull out all the stops when you’re not around or not looking. Overreacting or using aversive strategies won’t do much to resolve the matter in an encouraging way.

Before we get into how to deal with dogs jumping on counters, lets discuss some of the methods you can use to prevent this from happening in the first place.

Prevention & Maintenance

Whenever a puppy or new dog enters your home, you should always start by laying down the ground rules in a way that clearly shows this new member of your household how to behave.

You can do this very effectively by managing access and giving your dog a crash course on proper house etiquette. This is done primarily with some positive crate training and supervision when Curious George is out exploring his surroundings.

Your dog should never succeed at being rewarded for counter surfing. A few victorious attempts can be curbed with some quick training but, repeated occurrences can lead to bad ‘dog on counter’ habits that are very tough to kick. I will discuss how to deal appropriately with a professional dog counter surfer in just a bit.

Whenever your dog is crated, there are no worries. When your dog is out roaming (perhaps after a nice outdoor potty break) you should have your eyes on him at all times. Keep him leashed to your waist or tied close by if needed. Allow your pup the chance to play and explore but always in a manner than allows for constructive feedback from you – his teacher.

When your dog is around the kitchen or when you’re preparing food, always reward and praise whenever he is calm or resting close by and not obsessing over the food.

If you’ve already taught the down command, you can ask for it and reward with a nice treat and praise.

If he’s being really good and minding his business, you can occasionally toss a tasty morsel from the table or counter. Offering treats in the kitchen or at the table is perfectly fine if you’re reinforcing the right behavior. This should of course be avoided if your dog is harassing you or guests and stalking for kitchen table scraps. In this event, you’re encouraging your dog to harass for food.

If your dog jumps up or attempts to get a taste when it’s not appropriate, you can ignore it as long as he doesn’t succeed at grabbing anything. Then get right back to reinforcing the relaxed, down behavior with maximum rewards. If the behavior is excessive, you can opt to use a time out in a crate or keep your dog tethered close by where he can’t reach. After a short while, you can release him and treat for not jumping.

Using positive reinforcement in this instance won’t take long at all. You can have a fairly calm and relaxed dog, with no intention to counter surf, in a matter of days. It’s all about how effectively you reward your dog for showing good manners around the kitchen table and counters.

This is by far the best way to transform a dog on counter into a dog on four legs.

Leave It Cue!

This cue is really helpful with curbing dog counter surfing. You should setup a few training sessions with food in plain sight.

Keep your dog on leash and approach say, the coffee table with a sandwich on it. Get close enough and see what happens. If your dog looks at you for an ok or ignores the food, praise heavily and treat.

Repeat this exercise a few times and slowly incorporate the “Leave It” cue and keep rewarding for the right behavior output. Take the time to setup different situations with different foods to tighten up the response.

You can of course use whatever vocal cue you like, including “no touch” or “not for you” or “no, that’s not yours!” or any other easy command.

You’ll teach your dog that “leaving it” provides extreme benefits like treats and heavy praise.

“If I touch the Pizza, Mom and Dad won’t be happy and I might get a time out. If I wait patiently and let them eat peacefully, I usually get a couple of pieces of tasty crust. Now that’s what I’m talkin’ about!” } Halle

This is also something you should keep working on. Don’t assume that a few successful trials will keep Fido off the Birthday Cake. It’s unfortunately not that simple.

Supervision is vital and several weeks or even months of good dog training and practice will yield the results you’re looking for.

Halle has learned to be really awesome around food for the most part. I wouldn’t necessarily leave food around her intentionally but she has truly exceptional dining table manners and is a real lady when she’s near our food. Her picnic etiquette is also pretty strong and that makes us really proud!

Dealing with an Obnoxious Counter Surfing Pro!

I’m not calling YOUR dog obnoxious. I’m calling his food stealing antics obnoxious. He just needs guidance, direction and a different perspective, that’s all.

If your dog has turned his counter surfing into a habit then you’ve got a little more work cut out for you.

Starting right now, you have to make sure you never leave any food or enticing items laying around for your dog to snatch. I’m very serious when I say NEVER!

Keep food stored, keep your counters extra clean, and garbages on wrap. Be extra vigilant when you’re preparing food. Keep your dishwasher closed at all times. You have to remove any and all chances for your dog to win any trophies as a counter surfing professional. He can play all he wants but No Winning!

This will naturally slow him down because your dog won’t enjoy playing if there’s nothing in it for him.

There are other variable and factors of course. I recommend reading our thorough Stop Puppy Jumping article for some in-depth insights on how you can prevent your dog from jumping on counters and furniture.

Then, depending on your situation, I would recommend praising your dog and offering treats whenever he settles down around food. Because we’re dealing with habit, the very first good reinforceable occurrences might take some time. Be patient and stick with it. Once you’ve rewarded the appropriate behavior a few times, your dog will slowly shift his behavior in accordance with your expectations.

If he’s just too much too handle, then keep him close, tethered to your waist, so you can kindly instruct him on what you expect of him now that you’re actively working on this problem. Never punish or lose control. Be calm, patient and instructive. Whenever your dog is resting around you or when you’re eating or preparing food, praise and treat. Let him know how proud you are of his progress.

You should also seriously consider using some of the techniques I mentioned earlier to teach a “Leave It” command. This will be golden to help your dog learn to change his ways.

But when all is said and done, here are the 3 most powerful rules to kick your dog’s counter surfing habit:

1. No more prizes! Remove all food and items that might encourage your dog to engage in counter surfing. Don’t leave anything to chance and make sure the entire family is on board.

2. Your dog should always be under strict supervision so that you can provide feedback and rewards for behaving the right way.

3. Keep using positive reinforcement to improve your dog’s manners tenfold. You want to use really high value treats and lots of praise whenever your dog behaves in a way that is in line with house rules.

You really have to stick to it! I can assure you that your dog WILL come around. Take the time to sit down with your family and create a game plan that incorporates the 3 rules above with consistency.

We know how annoying a counter surfer can be! There’s nothing like a vanishing sandwich or precious dessert that ends up in your dog’s belly when you look away. Speak your mind in the comment section below and share your stories.

Forget everything you’ve heard about not playing tug of war games with your dog or puppy. It’s just really bad advice.

Playing tug of war with dogs the right way will NOT lead to dog aggression or dangerous dominance related issues. Anyone that says otherwise is either playing it too safe, has never integrated this priceless game into their dog’s list of activities or doesn’t know what they’re talking about.

Again, let me be very clear that I’m referring to training your dog to play the appropriate way with smart rules of engagement. Playing tug-of-war can get rough and does require very strict boundaries and rules to keep the sessions fun and safe. All of this can be taught with consistent training sessions and positive reinforcement.

“Ain’t Nothing to It! I can play Tug with the Best of Them!” } Halle

In any case, bad dog training/play advice is way too common and the misconception of tug being too dangerous is one example.

I decided to write this piece right after an awesome energy burning tug session with Halle. She was doing rounds and looking for something to play in an almost “extremely-bored” manner, pacing and looking for some activity while Mom and Dad worked. Asia proposed offering Halle a couple of rounds of Super Tug and within minutes we had a low-key, fulfilled and relaxed dog.

“Playing Tug was beyond Fun! My head kind of hurts but what a Rush!” } Halle

Real Talk!

This article might even conflict with what you’ve heard from sources like your dog breeder or even your vet and that’s ok. That doesn’t mean that they’re right. You also don’t have to just take my word for it.

Jean Donaldson, acclaimed author of The Culture Clash writes:

“Drs. Peter Borchelt and Linda Goodloe have conducted the only study ever performed on owners who play tug with their dogs vs. those that do not. The study yielded zero correlation between regular tug-of-war games and increased aggression.”

Keywords in that passage – Zero Correlation.

I really want you to be open to teaching your dog to play tug with you because doing it has many benefits, including building a stronger bond and offering a great source of exercise for your dog. You can ALSO expect to burn some extra calories in the process! Having a fulfilled, more relaxed dog means less dog problems, which equals happy smiles for everyone!

I’m going to write and post an in-depth article on how to teach your dog to play tug the RIGHT way with proper Rules and Boundaries very soon so Subscribe to our Dog Newsletter and keep an eye out. Teaching tug-of-war the wrong way can be dangerous, so don’t leave anything to chance and commit to REALLY teaching your dog how the game is played.

Critical Rules for Safe Play!

1. Dog lets go on cue every time, no exception.
2. Dog doesn’t touch or take without your permission.
3. No Teeth Contact on anything other than Tug Toy.

You must have control during play sessions. With practice and repeated play, your dog will learn to trust and let himself go, tapping into something really deep inside of him. Sure, the game is highly energetic and fierce but it’s only a game. Don’t mistake something good with something that isn’t so. An enthusiastic power tugger is not an aggressive or dominant dog.

Yeah, it’s primal! That’s what makes it so awesome! Your dog will love you for allowing him to engage is such a deeply satisfying game. We’ve played tug games with many dogs and have NEVER had an issue or incident that would cause concern. Again, you must always be safe and transform yourself into not only a smart teammate but also a referee before playing tug with your dog.

Take the notion of dog aggression caused by tugging and toss it out the window. Once you accept the idea of playing tug-of-war with dogs and take the time to learn and teach this awesome energy burning game, you’ll open up a whole new dimension of fun and excitement!

Your Turn! Speak your Mind…

Have you been avoiding playing tug because you’re afraid your dog might get wild or uncontrollable? Will you promise to give dog tug of war a try?

Do you already play tug with your dog? Let us in on your fun sessions in the comments below and help put an end to this misconception.